Bursting with vibrant color, relentless humidity, and a deeply complex history, Puerto Rico is an island that wears its immense heart on its sleeve. Filmed in early 2017 for Parts Unknown, this journey aimed to highlight the economic struggles and the unyielding, joyful resilience of the Boricua spirit long before disaster struck. The culinary landscape is an intoxicating, heavy blend of Spanish, African, and Taino influences, resulting in a food culture unapologetically obsessed with pork, plantains, and deep-fried perfection. Escaping the tourist-heavy streets of San Juan, the narrative sought out the true soul of the island—the mountain lechoneras where whole pigs spin over open fires, the coastal shacks serving up steamed land crabs, and the humble, grandmother-run kitchens dishing out rich, slow-cooked stews. It is a passionate, greasy-fingered celebration of a people who know how to live fiercely and eat brilliantly despite systemic hardships. To truly taste the magic of this Caribbean powerhouse, you must venture off the beaten path. Here are the essential, deeply traditional spots that defined this unforgettable trip.
The great Anthony Bourdain left his mark everywhere he went. When his death was announced to the world in June 2018, media throughout the globe chimed in and listed all the great things he had done for their respective city, town, province, country. Whereas before, tourists would shy away from exotic foods, thanks to him, travellers now go the extra mile to find and try local bites. With this in mind, here are all the restaurants Bourdain visited and the dishes he tasted when he shot Anthony Bourdain Puerto Rico for his show, Parts Unknown Season 10 Episode 6 (originally aired November 5, 2017):
DISH – Tortitas de Maíz con Jamón, Sopa de Platanos, Pastel al Caldero and Morcilla
WHAT IS IT?
Tortitas de Maíz con Jamón – corn fritters with ham; Sopa de Platanos – plantain soup; Pastel al Caldero – slow-cooked pork marinated in bitter orange, taro root, green plantains, squash and garbanzo beans; Morcilla – blood sausage
READ MORE: HUNTER S. THOMPSON – THE RUM DIARY
WHERE IS IT?
Casa Vieja
Km, 26 PR-149
Ciales, Puerto Rico
ANTHONY BOURDAIN PUERTO RICO NOTES
Typical grandmother’s house serving “grandma” food – Pastel al Caldero being the house specialty.
READ MORE: TRADITIONAL JAMAICAN FOOD: A DELICIOUS, UNIQUE TREAT
DISH – Steamed Land Crab
WHAT IS IT?
Steamed corn-fed land crabs.
WHERE IS IT?
El Trasmayo
Medianía Alta
Loíza, Puerto Rico
ANTHONY BOURDAIN PUERTO RICO NOTES
A crab shack in a local beach in Loiza, about 45 minutes from San Juan.
DISH – Lechón and Gandinga
WHAT IS IT?
Lechón – slow-roasted suckling pig on a spit; Gandinga – traditional stew made from pig’s heart, liver and kidneys.
WHERE IS IT?
Lechonera El Rancho de Apa
Carr. 173 KM 28.9 Bo
Guaynabo, Puerto Rico
PARTS UNKNOWN PUERTO RICO NOTES
Luis “Apa” Guzman, the owner of El Rancho de Apa, has been slow-roasting suckling pigs for about 50 years, with no part of the pig going to waste.
READ MORE: PUERTO RICO: ALL OF THE RESTAURANTS PICKED BY ANTHONY BOURDAIN ON NO RESERVATIONS
This poignant love letter to Puerto Rico took on a heartbreaking historical significance when Hurricane Maria devastated the island mere months after filming concluded. In his broader body of work, the episode serves as a vital, beautiful time capsule, preserving the joy, the music, and the incredible culinary heritage of the communities before the storm. It perfectly highlights his lifelong dedication to treating marginalized regions with the profound respect and admiration they deserve, focusing entirely on the warmth and generosity of the local people. It is a powerful reminder of the enduring strength found in a shared meal and a fierce cultural identity. Support the island’s recovery, explore the mountain roads, and experience the legendary hospitality for yourself.
