{"id":6096,"date":"2025-06-13T19:59:07","date_gmt":"2025-06-13T23:59:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.continentscondiments.com\/thefinediningblog\/?p=6096"},"modified":"2026-08-27T11:57:19","modified_gmt":"2026-08-27T15:57:19","slug":"le-restaurant-de-lhotel-paris","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.continentscondiments.com\/thefinediningblog\/le-restaurant-de-lhotel-paris\/","title":{"rendered":"Le Restaurant de l\u2019Hotel, Paris \u2013 It&#8217;s Tough to Find Foodie Recognition in Paris"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>PARIS, France \u2013 \u201cTo love oneself is the beginning of a lifelong romance.\u201d And even if that weren\u2019t true, there\u2019s a lifelong romance that was sparked by the author of these lines: Oscar Wilde gave his last breath at L\u2019H\u00f4tel d\u2019Alsace and, since then, the place has been marketed as such. It\u2019s the smallest 5-star hotel in Paris, its restaurant holds a Michelin star \u2013 more on that later \u2013 and the Oscar Wilde suite can be rented for $1134 CAD per night. That\u2019s what I call contemporary romance\u2026<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>Unfortunately, this restaurant has since closed its doors.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>In this series of articles, C\u00e9dric Lizotte visits&nbsp;some of the best restaurants in Europe. From France to Switzerland via the Czech Republic, here are the best places to sample the delights of some of the best chefs on the planet.&nbsp;Follow it with the hashtag #CedricInEurope.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Today, the place is known as L\u2019H\u00f4tel \u2013 that\u2019s the name of the hotel, meaning that the hotel is called L\u2019H\u00f4tel \u2013 and the restaurant is called The Restaurant. If you were to guess the name of the bar located on the premises of the hotel, you\u2019d probably be right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But all of the surreal names and history are&nbsp;not what this article is about. It\u2019s about chef Julien Montbabut\u2019s food, for which the Michelin guide has only awarded a single star. It\u2019s about Le Restaurant\u2019s crazy-creepy d\u00e9cor, its hushed ambiance and its fabulous, friendly service. Oh, and it\u2019s about chef Montbabut\u2019s wife, Joana Th\u00f6ny Montbabut, the pastry chef at the restaurant, and the best lemon meringue pie I\u2019ve ever had.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n\n\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Le Restaurant de l\u2019Hotel, Paris \u2013&nbsp;Artful to the Bones<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The food at this restaurant is all about fabulous plating. It\u2019d be clich\u00e9 to call the plates \u201c\u0153uvres d\u2019art\u201d, but I\u2019m not sure there\u2019s any other way to describe them. A carpaccio of scallops paired with radishes bounces off the plate with reds, pinks, whites and greens. A crab, avocado and yuzu espuma dish could have looked monochromatic, yet the addition of a violet edible flower and a tiny gold leaf turns this dish into a simplistic fragrant dancefloor for the senses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The d\u00e9cor is quite the ordeal, too: it\u2019s super dark, in there! Guests are seated on felted fauteuils, chandeliers spout warm orange light, and tables are set in alcoves designed to keep each conversation hushed and private. What an atmosphere! It\u2019s as if speaking in any other way than with whispers would be frowned upon. But by who? Not by the waiting staff for sure, who are all smiles and seem to enjoy every minute of their working hours. There\u2019s nothing ordinary about this place\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A dish combining a cabbage cake and a pigeon breast with a deep dark juniper sauce brought up tastes of coal, blood, veal fond and dandelion. It was combined with a glass of red wine &#8211; Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage 2008 \u2013 that seemed to bring the deep dark aromas in the food back to life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Of course, there were a few homemade breads, but what stole the show was the seaweed compound butter. That creamy dairy product was so seductively umami that it made whole wheat bread not only palatable, but a wonderful thing to eat. That seaweed butter is the only thing that ever made brown bread as delicious as it smells.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Despite a couple of Japanese influences \u2013 the seaweed butter and a yuzu espuma, namely \u2013 the food at Le Restaurant is French through and through. All of the precepts of Nouvelle Cuisine are respected, the ingredients presented mostly grow in France and the plating is thoroughly artistic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Which brings me to my next point: how come does that superb restaurant only hold one star?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">We all know that the Michelin guide loves luxury ingredients. The presence of gold leaf and foie gras on the menu should cover that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">We also know that a luxurious setting and fancy service is mandatory. Check and check.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">So why only one star?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The only explanation I can find is the simple fact that we are in Paris. And that no one is prophet in his own country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The competition in Paris is truly ferocious, and great restaurants can be found on every corner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Yet, according to my personal opinion, the meal offered by chef Montbabut at Le Restaurant is worth a second star.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">But this isn\u2019t disappointing to people, like you and I, who are in the know. It\u2019s actually an advantage: only us can go and have pastry chef Th\u00f6ny Montbabut\u2019s lemon meringue pie. No need for reservations months in advance to have one of the best desserts out there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The lemon curd isn\u2019t too sweet. The meringue is torch-roasted and crumbles while the lemoncress releases its herbal juices and aromatic pungency. And the sight of the bites left in our plate, covered in gold leaf, brings back a certain \u201cjoie de vivre\u201d, the one that reminds us that after all, we\u2019re in the middle of one of the most beautiful cities in the world and a few steps from the banks of the Seine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Le Restaurant &#8211; <em>Unfortunately, this restaurant has since closed its doors.<\/em><\/strong><br>\n<strong>L&#8217;H\u00f4tel<br>\n<\/strong>13 Rue des Beaux Arts, 75006 Paris, France<strong><br>\n<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>PARIS, France \u2013 \u201cTo love oneself is the beginning of a lifelong romance.\u201d And even if that weren\u2019t true, there\u2019s a lifelong romance that was sparked by the author of these lines: Oscar Wilde gave his last breath at L\u2019H\u00f4tel d\u2019Alsace and, since then, the place has been marketed as such. It\u2019s the smallest 5-star&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6104,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[71,109,86,314,22],"class_list":["post-6096","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-restaurants-food","tag-europe","tag-france-en","tag-hotel-en","tag-paris","tag-restaurant-en"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Le Restaurant de l\u2019Hotel, Paris \u2013 It&#039;s Tough to Find Foodie Recognition in Paris &#8211; The Fine Dining Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Le Restaurant de l\u2019H\u00f4tel is located in L&#039;Hotel in Paris. One is a Michelin starred restaurant. The other is a five-star hotel. 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