Straddling the deep historical divides between East and West, Budapest is a visually stunning, melancholic city where faded imperial grandeur meets gritty, post-Soviet resilience. Arriving in 2015 for a beautifully cinematic episode of Parts Unknown, the mission was to decode the complex, slightly pessimistic soul of the Hungarian capital. The culinary landscape here is a heavy, deeply comforting testament to survival and tradition, heavily reliant on profound amounts of paprika, slow-braised meats, and the omnipresent reverence for pork fat. Accompanied by the legendary, Oscar-winning cinematographer Vilmos Zsigmond, the exploration seamlessly blended high art with working-class sustenance. From marveling at the sheer, absurd scale of a golden schnitzel at a local cafeteria, to navigating the chaotic beauty of traditional butcher shops serving up blood sausage and rich stews, the journey is an unflinching celebration of Hungarian fortitude. It also found quiet, poetic perfection in a simple bowl of fisherman’s soup along the river. To truly understand the romantic, heavy heart of Central Europe, you must dine at these essential, historically significant eateries.
The great Anthony Bourdain left his mark everywhere he went. When his death was announced to the world in June 2018, media throughout the globe chimed in and listed all the great things he had done for their respective city, town, province, country. Whereas before, tourists would shy away from exotic foods, thanks to him, travellers now go the extra mile to find and try local bites. With this in mind, here are all the restaurants Bourdain visited and the dishes he tasted when he shot Anthony Bourdain Budapest for his show, Parts Unknown Season 5 Episode 7 (originally aired June 7, 2015):
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DISH – Pork Trotter Stew
WHAT IS IT?
Stewed pig’s feet.
WHERE IS IT?
New York Café
Erzsébet krt. 9-11
Budapest, Hungary
ANTHONY BOURDAIN BUDAPEST NOTES
In the old days, it is said writers can spend their time at the New York Café even without spending a dime on food or drinks. These days, it is a place for fine dining, with superior coffee choices and fine wines. As Anthony Bourdain puts it, it is a place where you can enjoy goose liver terrine and other fine dishes. In Parts Unknown Budapest, one can see Bourdain diving into a serving of Pork Trotter Stew at the New York Café.
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DISH – Schnitzel
WHAT IS IT?
A slice of meat, thinned through pounding, fried in fat.
WHERE IS IT?
Pléhcsárda
Kolozsvár u. 48
Budapest, Hungary
ANTHONY BOURDAIN BUDAPEST NOTES
In Parts Unknown Budapest, Anthony Bourdain was amazed with the sheer size of the schnitzel at Pléhcsárda.
DISH – Hurka Blood Sausage and Pörkölt
WHAT IS IT?
Hurka Blood Sausage is made of spiced organ meats and blood. Pörkölt refers to slow-braised meat.
WHERE IS IT?
Belvárosi Disznótoros
Király u. 1d
Budapest, Hungary
ANTHONY BOURDAIN BUDAPEST NOTES
In Budapest, the best butcher shops must also serve meat dishes. Belvárosi Disznótoros is one such example. Here, Anthony Bourdain witnessed the entire process of making a Hungarian blood sausage.
DISH – Halászlé
WHAT IS IT?
Hungarian fisherman’s soup, with the fish simmered low-and-slow in rich fish stock, with onions and paprika.
WHERE IS IT?
Öreg Kőrössy Halászcsárda
Felső Tisza-Part 336
Szeged, Hungary
ANTHONY BOURDAIN BUDAPEST NOTES
Renowned cinematographer Vilmos Zsigmond took Anthony Bourdain to his favorite fishing tavern, Öreg Kőrössy Halászcsárda. Here, they shared a pot of Halászlé, made with pike from the river.
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This visually staggering, beautifully moody exploration of Budapest stands as a cinematic masterpiece within his later catalog. In the broader scope of his work, it perfectly highlights his profound empathy for nations that have endured immense suffering, celebrating how they preserve their identity through the sheer, comforting weight of their traditional cuisine. The deeply moving conversations with the late Vilmos Zsigmond provided a haunting, historical gravity to the episode, proving that the most important ingredient in any meal is the shared history of those eating it. His sheer joy in devouring a massive schnitzel or a bowl of spicy river fish stew underscored his enduring love for unpretentious, working-class perfection. It remains an unforgettable tribute to the fading elegance and undeniable grit of the region. Wander the grand, crumbling boulevards, seek out a local butcher, and let the rich, paprika-laced flavors warm your soul.
