RESTO PROFILE – Bistro Margaux, Starred Restaurant, Brussels: The Art of the Understatement

Sint-Martens-Bodegem, BELGIUM – When a restaurant of this quality dons the prefix “bistro”, it can be difficult to know what to expect. Is it false modesty? Or a roguish trick? Whatever it might be, this may be all it takes to be immediately depted. So here we go: Bistro Margaux, Michelin-starred restaurant, Brussels.

Note: Bistro Margaux has closed its doors and was replaced by Brasserie Julie.

In this series of articles, Cédric Lizotte visits some of the best restaurants in Europe. From France to Switzerland via the Czech Republic, here are the best places to sample the delights of some of the best chefs on the planet. Follow it with the hashtag #CedricInEurope.

Actually, no, not Brussels as such, but Sint-Martens-Bodegem, a small suburban town, quiet and charming, that one can reach by public transport from the Belgian capital. But be careful, do not get caught like I was, since commuting trains stop at 10pm or so… which means that I had to take a taxi home.

Bistro Margaux is the art of understatement.

During my visit, the weather was radiant. This was an excellent opportunity to go have an apéro – and the spectacular amuse-bouche – on the terrace. Then, the meal was served inside, where the impeccable service of the team and the nicely decorated dining room made me forget what time it was.

Dish after dish, not only did I witness inventiveness, for example the use of a leaf of artichoke as a vehicule for an appetizer, but also a recognition of traditional Belgian cuisine with a modern twist of Paling in ‘t groen (eel with parsley sauce).

If chef Thomas Locus and his team let their dishes speak for themselves, maybe the elegance of their dishes can make you salivate. Here are the pictures of the marvelous meal I had the opportunity to have at Bistro Margaux.