Tucked into the rugged mountains of the Caucasus, Armenia is a nation defined by ancient stones, heartbreaking historical scars, and an incredibly profound resilience. Filmed for Parts Unknown and aired in 2018, this journey was a deep, emotional dive into a culture that has survived genocide, earthquakes, and endless geopolitical strife through sheer stubbornness and a fierce dedication to its heritage. The culinary landscape here is the ultimate expression of survival, built on fresh herbs, ancient grains, slow-braised meats, and the omnipresent, culturally sacred lavash bread. Guided by passionate diaspora figures like System of a Down’s Serj Tankian, the exploration bypassed the superficial to focus on the soul-warming comfort of the Armenian table. From partaking in an intense, traditional feast of baked sheep’s head and oxtail soup in the rebuilt city of Gyumri to enjoying delicate trout baked in lavash alongside potent apricot vodka, the narrative is an ode to the warmth of a people who refuse to be erased. Discover the powerful, intensely traditional eateries that anchored this unforgettable, moving expedition.
The great Anthony Bourdain left his mark everywhere he went. When his death was announced to the world in June 2018, media throughout the globe chimed in and listed all the great things he had done for their respective country. Whereas before, tourists would shy away from exotic foods, thanks to him, travellers now go the extra mile to find and try local bites. With this in mind, here are all the restaurants Bourdain visited and the dishes he tasted when he shot Anthony Bourdain Armenia for his show, Parts Unknown Season 11 Episode 4 (originally aired May 20, 2018):
DISH – Khashlama
WHAT IS IT?
A dish of braised lamb shank served with rice pilaf.
READ MORE: BURGUNDY: ALL OF THE RESTAURANTS PICKED BY ANTHONY BOURDAIN ON NO RESERVATIONS
WHERE IS IT?
Dolmama
10 Pushkin St
Yerevan, Armenia
ANTHONY BOURDAIN ARMENIA NOTES
Dolmama specializes in modern versions of classic American dishes.
DISH – Apricot Vodka and Fish Baked in Lavash
WHAT IS IT?
Apricot Vodka – a type of vodka made from apricots; Fish Baked in Lavash – trout wrapped and baked in lavash.
READ MORE: TBILISI: ALL OF THE RESTAURANTS PICKED BY ANTHONY BOURDAIN ON PARTS UNKNOWN
WHERE IS IT?
Gayane
35b Tumanyan street
Yerevan, Armenia
ANTHONY BOURDAIN ARMENIA NOTES
At Gayane’s is a local favorite – a restaurant that operates out of a former private home. In Parts Unknown Armenia, Anthony Bourdain noted that Fish Baked in Lavash is a dish not as simple as it sounds.
Unfortunately, this restaurant has closed its doors.
DISH – Chanakh, Tjvjik and Qyalla
WHAT IS IT?
Chanakh – oxtail soup traditional to Gyumri; Tjvjik – liver and heart with tomatoes and oil; Qyalla – baked sheep’s head.
WHERE IS IT?
Poloz Mukuch
Gyumri, Armenia
ANTHONY BOURDAIN ARMENIA NOTES
Restaurant on a recently rebuilt street in Gyumri.
Unfortunately, this restaurant has closed its doors.
READ MORE: BUDAPEST: ALL OF THE RESTAURANTS PICKED BY ANTHONY BOURDAIN ON PARTS UNKNOWN
Airing shortly before his passing in 2018, this exploration of Armenia carries an immense, bittersweet weight, standing as one of his final profound journalistic achievements. It is a masterpiece of historical empathy, utilizing the communal act of sharing khashlama and lavash to tackle the heavy, unresolved legacy of the Armenian genocide. In the broader scope of his work, it perfectly highlights his unique ability to give voice to marginalized nations, celebrating their vibrant present while respectfully acknowledging their tragic past. The sheer generosity and warmth of the locals provided a beautiful counterpoint to the somber history. Venture into the mountains, raise a glass of apricot vodka, and experience the unbreakable spirit of the Armenian people.
