Historic cobblestones and an atmosphere heavy with the absolute reverence for classic gastronomy set the stage for this pilgrimage to the undisputed culinary capital of France. Filmed in 2014 for the third season of Parts Unknown, this journey into Lyon is an act of profound respect, bowing to the masters who established the foundations of modern Western cooking. The culinary scene here is famously uncompromising, anchored by the legendary, rich traditions of the local bouchons and the towering, world-renowned legacy of Chef Paul Bocuse. The narrative angle is decidedly traditional and wonderfully indulgent, focusing on the perfection of centuries-old techniques, massive Lyonnaise sausages, and dishes cloaked in rivers of heavy cream and butter. It is a spectacular, unapologetic celebration of the old guard and the pure, unadulterated pleasure of classic French dining. Tie your napkin and follow this meticulously curated guide to the most essential, historically significant tables in Lyon.
The great Anthony Bourdain left his mark everywhere he went. When his death was announced to the world in June 2018, media throughout the globe chimed in and listed all the great things he had done for their respective city. Whereas before, tourists would shy away from exotic foods, thanks to him, travellers now go the extra mile to find and try local bites. With this in mind, here are all the restaurants Bourdain visited and the dishes he tasted when he shot Anthony Bourdain Lyon for his show, Parts Unknown Season 3 Episode 4 (originally aired April 27, 2014):
DISH – Sabodet
WHAT IS IT?
Sabodet, a large Lyonnaise sausage made primarily from pig’s head with pork belly and shoulder. It is flavored with brandy, nutmeg and allspice.
WHERE IS IT?
Reynon
13 Rue des Archers
Lyon, France
ANTHONY BOURDAIN LYON NOTES
In this episode of Parts Unknown, Anthony Bourdain highly recommended Reynon for Lyonnaise sausages. Here, he also sampled Saucisson à Cuire and Saucisson de Lyon.
DISH – Quenelle de Brochet – Anthony Bourdain Lyon
WHAT IS IT?
Quenelle de Brochet is a dish of pike folded into light dough served with nantua sauce.
WHERE IS IT?
Bouchon Comptoir Abel
25 Rue Guynemer
Lyon, France
ANTHONY BOURDAIN LYON NOTES
As Anthony Bourdain put it, a bouchon is a “uniquely Lyonnaise institution”. It is a laid-back pub/bistro with a “limited, usually old-school menu”. And if there is one iconic dish to represent Lyonnaise bouchon, it would be Quenelle de Brochet, which he sampled at Bouchon Comptoir Abel.
DISH – Blanquette de Veau – Anthony Bourdain Lyon
WHAT IS IT?
Blanquette de Veau is slowly stewed neck and shoulder pieces of veal with mushrooms. It is often served over rice.
WHERE IS IT?
Café Comptoir Brunet
23 Rue Claudia
Lyon, France
ANTHONY BOURDAIN LYON NOTES
Anthony Bourdain was invited to join members of the Francs-Mâchons for dinner at Café Comptoir Brunet. They enjoyed a meal of Blanquette de Veau, hunks of bread and wine.
DISH – Salmon with Sorrel Sauce – Anthony Bourdain Lyon
WHAT IS IT?
Lightly pan-fried salmon left to fully cook in sorrel sauce.
WHERE IS IT?
Maison Troisgros
728 Route de Villerest
Ouches, France
ANTHONY BOURDAIN LYON NOTES
Maison Troisgros is the Michelin Guide three-starred restaurant run by three generations of the gastronomy icons, Troisgros family. Anthony Bourdain sampled their iconic Salmon with Sorrel Sauce in this Parts Unknown episode.
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DISH – Paul Bocuse Specialties – Parts Unknown Lyon
WHAT IS IT?
Paul Bocuse is a culinary icon who introduced innovative approaches to French cuisine. His specialties include sea bass baked in a crust with a tomato béarnaise sauce, Pot-au-Feu, and Lièvre à la Royale (wild hare stew).
WHERE IS IT?
Paul Bocuse
40 Rue de la Plage
Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, France
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ANTHONY BOURDAIN LYON NOTES
In Parts Unknown – Lyon, Anthony Bourdain was treated to a meal of Paul Bocuse’s specialties. The meal started with Truffle Soup Élysée, followed by a sea bass dish. The sea bass is filled with lobster mousse, chervil and tarragon, wrapped carefully in pastry. He also had a traditional French peasant dish, Pot-au-Feu, with beef shanks, flank steak, ox tail, veal shanks, chicken, marrow bones, beef ribs, leeks, carrots, turnips, fennel and parsnips stewed long and at low temperature, served with its own rich broth. Then Anthony was delighted to finally have a taste of Lièvre à la Royale – wild hare slowly cooked then coated with a sauce of its own minced heart, liver and lungs that has been thickened with its own blood.
READ MORE: MARSEILLE: ALL OF THE RESTAURANTS PICKED BY ANTHONY BOURDAIN ON PARTS UNKNOWN
Lyon represented the ultimate, sacred mountain of classical technique in his culinary worldview, a place where the history of gastronomy is treated with near-religious devotion. This specific episode stands out as a deeply moving, historical document, featuring a profoundly respectful and joyous meal with the late, legendary pioneer Paul Bocuse. The unapologetic consumption of rich, wildly complex dishes like the iconic wild hare stew highlighted his enduring belief that the foundations of cooking must be preserved and celebrated. It is a beautiful, masterfully crafted homage to the very roots of the restaurant industry itself. Allow this incredibly rich, historically vital itinerary to inspire your own ultimate gastronomic pilgrimage to the heart of France.
